Necklace, 1968. Yellow gold, platinum, turquoise, lapis lazuli, diamonds. Transformable into two bracelets, detachable pendant clip. Van Cleef & Arpels collection.
From June 30, 2023 to January 9, 2024, the exhibition “Interplays of colors and gems by Van Cleef & Arpels” highlights the Maison’s affinity for color combinations and contrasting textures between the 1950s and the 1970s. In the Galerie du Patrimoine at Place Vendôme, 55 pieces from Van Cleef & Arpels’ patrimonial collection, reveal a palette of dazzling gemstones amid a decor reminiscent of 1970s stylings.
Throughout these decades, the wave of freedom sweeping through different art forms, along with curiosity for other cultures, fueled the Maison’s imagination. Its creations displayed unexpected combinations of materials with a bold blend of gemstones perpetuating a distinct style. In 1954, Van Cleef & Arpels created “La Boutique”, a new range of more accessible pieces composed of “daytime” jewelry for everyday allure.
New blends of colors and materials, along with sculptural shapes, transformed the jewelry tradition during this decade. Long necklaces in yellow gold and ornamental stones adorned the flowing silhouettes of designers such as Yves Saint Laurent, Courrèges and Paco Rabanne. At this time, the Indian journeys of the Arpels brothers sparked various sources of inspiration reflecting the patterns, textiles and shimmering color nuances distinctive of Indian crafts. During this decade, the cocktail ring became an essential piece for elegant women looking to shine at high-society soirées. The ring was sure to be noticed thanks to its large, brightly colored center stone, enhanced by a voluminous structure.
The free spirit of the 1970s is reflected in the jewelry arts. Creations of a new genre gained a devoted following througt their quality and the diversity of their styles. Braided or granulated gold gleamed together with bright and opaque materials like the angel skin coral on the Pompon model. At the same time, other pieces of Eastern inspiration emerged: purple amethysts and tourmalines flush with carmine reflections, ribbed or engraved, came together with gold and diamonds on a necklace and a letter-opener, both created in 1976.
Between the 1950s and the 1970s, Van Cleef & Arpels embraced a vast scope of expressions: materials, aesthetics, techniques, metamorphoses and more. By establishing itself as a High Jewelry Maison with a particularly rich color palette, the brand reasserted its creativity and its keen fondness for expressive hues.
