Encouraging excellence at the eighth edition
For its eighth edition, to be held from 9 to 12 May 2024 at Palexpo Hall 1, GemGenève has come up with a new and surprising exhibition honouring that most fascinating of precious stones, opal.
Known since ancient times, this gem – and its unique iridescence – is one of the greatest miracles of geology. Dubbed “the queen of jewels” by Shakespeare, opal has gone down in jewellery history as the gemstone favoured by both Empress Josephine and Queen Victoria.
With a selection of some fifty jewels and works of art, GemGenève is offering an exhibition that’s as eclectic as it’s poetic. Flames of Opal Essence sets up a dialogue between the craft of jewelsmithing and contemporary art: a journey of the senses taking visitors on an aesthetic initiation into all the mysteries of iridescence. An original exhibition design by Autre Idée will introduce visitors to all the properties of this mysterious gemstone, sublimated over and again by jewellers down through the ages.
Curated by GemGenève Director Mathieu Dekeukelaire, Flames of Opal Essence was brought to life with the support of the Geneva Museum of Art History MAH and the following contributors: Piaget, A.win Siu, Chris Price Opals, Emil Weis Opals, Ernst Färber, Faerber Collection, Imagem, Kreis Jewellery, Nicolas Torroni, Paul Fisher Inc., Michel Huelin, contemporary artist, Brice Decque, photographer, Laurent Kariv, Video maker, Jynx Productions Paris and Boris Chauviré of GeoGems, holder of a PhD in mineralogy and acting in his capacity as a scientist specialising in opals.
A STONE STEEPED IN SUPERSTITION
The Geneva Museum of Art and History’s collections include a number of antique items set with opals, some of which will be on display in the Flames of Opal Essence exhibition. One of the most remarkable pieces visitors will have the opportunity to admire is a medallion bracelet, probably made between 1800 and 1850, set with an opal that conceals a tiny secret compartment in which a fine lock of child’s hair is preserved.
OPALS: THE GEMSTONE OF CHOICE FOR TWENTIETH-CENTURY JEWELLERY
Exploring the interplay of light and the infinite possibilities opened up by this sensational material, the twentieth century saw the creation of pieces that were as delicate as they were astounding. From US jeweller Raymond Yard to German artist and goldsmith Hermann Jünger via the creations of the Italian firm Vhernier, opals were constantly sublimated and fashioned throughout the twentieth century. GemGenève has chosen a selection of the most remarkable pieces for Flames of Opal Essence.
OPALS, FROM JEWELLERY TO WATCHMAKING
In the 1970s, Piaget took the daring step of introducing opal into the hallowed traditions of fine watchmaking, devising extravagant, sculptural jewelled watches. In a dazzling display of both light and the time, these uniquely styled jewel watches reveal the mystical, unfathomable beauty of each opal used. For Flames of Opal Essence, Piaget has generously agreed to display some of the most beautiful timepieces in its heritage collection: rare watches that visitors will have an opportunity to appreciate at GemGenève.
OPAL AND CONTEMPORARY ART
Flames of Opal Essence will also be honouring works by contemporary jewellers, including a number of pieces by Geneva jewelsmith Gilbert Albert. Seen as one of the pioneers of contemporary jewellery, Albert is one of the rare designers who, with infinite talent, succeeded in combining this opalescent material with his jewellery pieces in textured, crumpled, and beaten gold. In presenting a number of contemporary jewellery items, Flames of Opal Essence will also be showcasing innovative jewellers such as French artist Florie Dupont, whose jewels take up the theme of ‘buried treasure’. Other designers such as trend-setting stylist A.win Siu, German jewellers Kreis Jewellery and leading specialists in Australian opals, Emil Weis Opals, will also be featuring prominently in the exhibition.
SUBLIMATING OPALS IN CONTEMPORARY ART
For this eighth edition, GemGenève director Mathieu Dekeukelaire has devised a daring exhibition that blends the craft of jewelsmithing and contemporary art. Drawing inspiration from the fact that observing an opal through the microscope gives the viewer the sensation of being immersed in a painting by Poliakoff, Ramade or Rollier, Mathieu Dekeukelaire has produced an unprecedented dialogue between jewels and works of art.
Flames of Opal Essence is the first ever exhibition to offer gemmology enthusiasts an opportunity to admire opal inclusions through the lens of major artworks of the twentieth century. By including contemporary artists in the exhibition, Mathieu Dekeukelaire has developed a surprising setting in which photographs by Brice Decque sit side by side with a video installation by Swiss multidisciplinary artist Michel Huelin.
For this fifth thematic exhibition, GemGenève has thought well outside the traditional exhibition ‘box’.
About GemGenève
GemGenève is a unique hub where jewellery designers, dealers in precious stones, retailers, collectors, connoisseurs and buyers both professional and private can all gather under the same roof. Over the course of four days, GemGenève offers an opportunity to acquire exceptional pieces and to be inspired by a community of specialists in the field of gemmology and jewellery.
It is a laboratory of creativity and innovation, bringing together recognised designers and emerging talents; a world of design, of rare gems, of antique and contemporary jewellery. Created by exhibitors, GemGenève offers a platform for expression that encompasses passion, expertise and education.
Flames of Opal Essence a GemGenève
Una mostra eclettica e poetica tutta da scoprire in occasione del prossimo salone GemGenève sal 9 al 12 Maggio!



